Soul Food in the South Side
Water-mel-lone, jes' like from down home' rosten'ears, tatoes-tatoes-tatoes; nice ripe toma-toes;
tommy ö tommy ö tomatoes; o-o-ochree and dry ingyuns.
| As thousands of African Americans left the Mississippi Delta during the Great Migration, their diet changed and adapted to city life. They left the land hoping that new employment would bring new prosperity. Pauline Holmes, a native of Mound Bayou, Mississippi stated that "there was always more nutrition on the farms. They didn't know why they were eating vegetables, they just did it." Women spent most of their waking hours working outside the home, in addition to the traditional household chores. The daily diet of many African American families changed because they did not have time to prepare meals, or did not have the kitchen space as they had in the South. But historian James Grossman asserted that the new settlers did not leave "their cultural baggage at the train station." Migrants continued to sing, eat and dress as they had 'back home." Many migrants sought out restaurants in the South Side such as H&A, Gladys or Daley's which served traditional soul food. |
Aaron Douglas, Aspiration, 1936 |
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Soul food restaurants opened in the
South Side serving traditional home cooked meals because migrants longed
for traditional 'down home' cooking. Working and living in the city, many
African Americans patronized South Side restaurants. Restaurant proprietor
Kinnard Holcombe stated, "Northerners eat out more because they live
in kitchenettes. They need to go to fast
food places." 'Soul Food' became associated with these restaurants
such as H&A, Glady's
and Daley's because they served as cultural identifier
linking food to their southern heritage. These restaurants functioned as
a social environment equatable with southern family picnics where friends
and family could gather to relish in home cooked meals while also supporting
local businesses.
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